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The Official 2-Wheeler Thread :cool:

Discussion in 'Non FIAT Cars and two wheelers' started by pioneeraaron, Jul 9, 2011.

  1. Viny

    Viny Esperto

    I didnt said OIL get BURNED, I said evaporation/breaking down/liquidation, in simple terms gets consumed internally as part of chemical reactions.
    Most important jobs of a good engine oil is to provide lubrication and reduce heat or transfer heat away from parts having frictions. During heavy load, engine oil forms an electron layer between moving parts to reduce the friction, it also takes away heat from moving parts and disposes of in other region which leads to some amount of internal evaporation, it process the sludge and removes it of which results into liquidation.

    A fully synthetic oil lasts long because it can maintain its viscosity for longer period of time but it doesnt mean it stays 1L from 1st km to the 10,000th KM. No oil in this world as of date does that AFAIK. Their specially developed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils. At times traditional motor oils burn as they dont have properties to support higher temperature range.

    I hope this helps, i am not sure if I am able to explain it well, please feel free to ask, i can retry.

    I can keep running healthy for 10,000km with regular topups of 300V, thats its speciality, but I cant do the same with traditional oils, as it would be creating lots of sludge, though the topup amount couldbe less due to heavy sludge presence.
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2011
  2. pioneeraaron

    pioneeraaron Superiore


    Doc,someone in ur area is really envying u and gifting u those scratches :D I hope one day you'll find him and the rest of the story will be posted on TFi :p


    I agree with you.I've quite researched on synthetics too.The detergents used in 300V tend to evaportate/liquidate faster than other synthetics hence frequent top ups.I've been using Shell and Petronas synthetics so far.And none of them posed a problem to me be it leaks or engine being rough.I luv the 300v but i would hate the top business business every now and then,then keep checking again n again blah blah..
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2011
  3. varoon9999

    varoon9999 Superiore

    New Delhi,HP 48
    New Delhi,HP 48
    Grande Punto 1.3
    gurjinder 22ji.....woow.....

    nicely maintained hats off.....i remember my bike too was spick n span for 1st four years of its purchase.....till date nothing has been repainted in my bult too.

    This reminds me of the song Yaar anmule(aap na nauhande bult chamkonde)

    (aap na nauhande bult chamkonde)= we don't take bath for ourselves but we give bath to our bullet on daily basis

    Guru 22ji how come haven't got alloy wheels on your ride,every bult sold in Chandigarh comes out with rado alloy?????

    PB 32 is for nawashahar,PB 30 is for balachaur???????
  4. Fiat-Yamaha

    Fiat-Yamaha Superiore

    It's a 135cc 4speed(Rx 100 styling- Last set of RX sold)

    This was done 4 years back. Only piston kit was imported from Dubai by my mechanic through a known parts dealer in chennai. Initially we had upgraded the carburetor to RD 350, since 1 year back to stock due to rocking petrol prices. use to get 25-28kmpl. after back to stock avg is 30-33kmpl. This is the reason i use my Punto more the my RX nowadays.

    Total cost was close to 5k
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2011
  5. gurjinder

    gurjinder Staff Member Janitor

    22ji i like spokes more than alloys ;)

    My bike is only among a few which doesn't have alloys and ''patt patt patt '' exhaust (baffle removal, free flow).

    PB 30 is Muktsar .
    varoon9999 likes this.
  6. Followed the same steps for my Dads bike Yamaha libero G5.

    Drained oil
    Put one litre of diesel
    started the bike on main stand.
    Bike was alive for 10 seconds and then turned off.

    I could not start it again.

    Drained diesel out of the engine
    Put 1 litre of engine oil

    Even then it is not starting.

    Suggest me a workaround before i am killed :p
  7. pioneeraaron

    pioneeraaron Superiore

    Did u kick start again n again?? The above written shouldn't happen at all.I've flushed two times without any problems.Did u give choke?? Check carb setting too.Engine turning off is improper tuning of the carb and also check timing.
  8. NitinGirish

    NitinGirish Amatore

    Nope. I got it re-painted couple of years back.

    BTW how much did your RX100 fetch you? Also, what is the kmpl of FZ like?
  9. With the diesel in, i put the vehicle on main stand, kick started it. Bike started as usual then after 10 seconds it developed a different sound and died. I did not raised the accelerator it was at idle speed. After that i tried to kick start, even with choke, bike would not budge.

    To be on safer side i drained the diesel out, i could see that the diesel was completely dark and also little thick. Put a castrol 20w40. Again tried to start the bike - no response.

    Left the bike till evening and after office went back and tried kicking it again. Voila it was alive. Drained the engine oil after riding it for 5 kms and put servo into the engine.

    I could not find motul :( . The engine as become smooth now and also very silent during idling.

    Hope this process has not caused internal damage to the engine
  10. pioneeraaron

    pioneeraaron Superiore

    Dont worry no internal damages by this process.Nice to hear to bike is alive now.Ride it as much as u can, say for about 50kms to make sure no damage has been done.Y did u drain castrol so fast?? Did u notice pickup difference?? Especially in smoothness and check heat management also.

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