Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by PatchyBoy, Sep 14, 2013.
With the obd scanner.
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Is it easy to do,please tell me what are things need to be procured i will arrange for the same.i have done my 6th service on my own(Not DIY) without Air filter and pollen filter change.
Sorry Rajan for off topic.
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Simply forget it & drive, it will automatically go ( in my case this happened, others can confirm).
2nd service done-11750 KM . Don't know when 15000 service message disappeared. But I saw the message.
3rd service done- 19450 KM . Same for 30000 message.
4th service done- 33984 KM .
Till today- 42200 KM. waiting for 45000 message to see ( 60K service pending at 49000KM).
Be happy & drive, it will not bother you much .
It will go off around 1000 kms later.
Part 2 - Pollen Filter Replacement
I am going to skip this explanation. Vijay_Khasa has explained this with videos here. As a matter of fact, that was the guide I used myself. Thanks buddy.
Part 3 - Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement
If you try this and it goes wrong, you are responsible. I am not.
Do not do this if you are not confident.
You will need to get under the car to do this.
Do not get under the car that is just supported by a jack.
The car will need to be raised and supported by jack stands.
Use the right tools.
Run the engine for 5-10 minutes or go for a short spin before doing this. Warm oil drains better than cold oil. Park the car on a level surface, engage hand brakes and slot into first gear. Raise the front end of the car and support properly. Also, put a couple of blocks behind the rear wheels to avoid rolling.
In my case, I chose to park the car on my driveway, with the engine jutting out on the ramp. This gave me enough crawl space under the engine.
Locate the drain plug for the engine oil sump and loosen it. In my case, it needed a 17 mm wrench. Place your drain pan / bowl, so as to avoid oil spillage. Now undo the bolt by hand, making sure not to drop the bolt into the bowl. No harm if you do drop it, but it will be messy fishing it out.
Let the oil drain. Now locate and remove the oil filter. In the T-jet, it is in the front towards the radiator and is protected by a carpet like fabric shell. This shell is held down by 3 T 45 screws. These screws are very hard to reach and can get quite frustrating. I think a flexible neck screwdriver might be handy for this. Once the cover is off, unscrew the oil filter and take it out. This requires a 27 mm socket wrench. Once you get it out, detach the old filter.
Now replace with new filter and new rubber gasket. Apply some engine oil to the new gasket to ensure a good seal and fix it back. Also fix the protective shield back. By now, the oil must have drained completely from the sump. Replace the drain bolt and tighten fully. Do not over tighten.
Now fill fresh oil into the engine. The capacity of the Jet is 3.3 Lts. It might be different for your car. Pour in about 3 lts and check the dip stick. Add more, a little at a time, till the oil level indicates max in the dip stick, without overfilling. Be patient when adding. It is easier to add than to drain.
Once done, replace the dipstick and the engine oil cap. That is all there is to it.
As always, use proper tools to minimize chances of injury and please dispose off the used oil filter and used engine oil responsibly.
Thanks for the details and superb pics which were more or less self explanatory.
Any particular reason why you opted to do it on your own instead of Fiat workshop? How are you going to ensure that Fiat is updated on the service done?
Part 4 - Gear oil Replacement
The warnings in the previous posts apply to this one as well
On the gear box, there will be 2 Allen bolts - 12 mm and 10 mm. The 12 mm is placed at a higher position than the 10 mm. The 12 mm is the fill plug and the 10 mm is the drain plug. Locate both, undo the fill plug first and then undo the drain plug. Of course place your drain bowl underneath first. Once completely drained, replace the drain plug. Clean the plugs first. Now take a piece of tube - about 3 feet must do - and insert one end into the fill hole. Route the other end to the top and connect a funnel to the other end. Fill the Abro treatment and gear oil, till it just starts to over flow. Replace the fill bolt and wipe the area clean, so it becomes easy to spot leaks if any.
That brings us to the end of servicing. Additionally, I also replaced fuel filter, but will not be posting the process here. It is tricky, can be dangerous if one is not careful and is not something a casual DIYer should be doing. I am also not going to go into washing and waxing the car - there are lots of people on the forum who have posted great guides on this subject.
Sat-Chit-Ananda - For recommending Abro. Thanks buddy, the difference has to experienced to be believed.
Raj29 - For being my assistant, guide, photographer and driver, when I needed to go get some tool.
My wife - For being the supportive soul she is. She disapproves of such activity, but respects my freedom enough to support me.
FASS - For being as bad as you are. If you were good, I would have never got to experience this joy.
Fellow members - For sharing knowledge
My adversaries - The more you taunt and ridicule me, the better I get.
Why did I choose to forego my warranty and do this myself? Here is my POV:
For starters, let me bust the myth, that DIY is to save money. It can be or it may not be, depending on your choice of materials used. The cost break up is here:
Fuel Filter - 514.00
Air Filter - 608.00
Pollen Filter - 199.00
Oil Filter - 460.00
Engine Oil - 4224.00
Abro Gear oil treatment - 263.00
Gear oil 2 L - 480.00
Total cost - 6748.00
This excludes the cost of additional tools I bought. I remember reading in the forum that the second service usually costs between 4800 and 6000.
A mother bakes a cake for her child's birthday. The cake will surely not look professional, the icing may not be great looking. But the taste will be awesome. Why does the mother do that, rather than order a cake from a bakery? Simply because she loves her child, wants to make sure that only the best and pure ingredients go into the cake.
So, why does the cake taste awesome? Because there is one special ingredient which only a mother can add to the cake - love.
That is why I chose to do this myself. I am not a big fan of great looking skin. But I refuse to compromise on the health of the vital organs of my car. And yes, I do love my car
The only downside I noticed after a drive this morning - The tyres have become noisier. Must be because the engine is barely audible :evilsmile
Oh yes, BTW, happy Engineer's day to all the Engineers on the forum. Thanks guys, but for you my learning would have been a lot slower.
Thanks for the write up Rajan.
If you don't mind me adding this - if the total capacity is 3.3L, initially add only 3.1 or so litres. Take the car for a run and after you have let it sit for a night, check the oil level in the morning on a dead cold engine. Top up as necessary. It's an old method which I follow.
Just my 0.02$
Thanks for the tip Gurjinder. I did check the level this morning and it was just at MAX. I also checked for leaks and found none. So as of now, I am a happy camper. Nonetheless, will keep your tip in mind next time.
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