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DIY - Car Care & Detailing thread

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by VahanPujari, May 30, 2010.

  1. nkrishnap

    nkrishnap Staff Member Janitor

    Linea 1.3
    I believe the walkin service facility for Karcher is in Peenya. This is what I was told by the Karcher sales rep in Metro. Compared to Black and Decker, Karcher should fare well in terms of quality as well as life. My close buddy has one, is happy with it as its doing the job of washing 4 cars almost everyday for the past 5 months.
  2. NishanthNag

    NishanthNag Amatore

    Grande Punto 1.2
    Have been using KARCHER K2.110 since 2+ years now, Worth the Price+Quality+Purpose Served+Saves water+Time = Thumbs up :)

    Can refer my write up here: http://www.teamfiat.co.in/punto-1-3-mjd-90-hp/9169-fiat-grande-punto-sport-kempi-12.html
  3. me_at_fiat

    me_at_fiat Regolare

    Mumbai, Pune
    Yes Sine04.. you are correct. I am looking for something like T-Jet Exhaust Pipe rather than punto sports oval shaped Exhausts tip!!!
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  4. Turbo_Sharath

    Turbo_Sharath Novizio

    Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India
    Insta cut 2 for cutting. It's a medium aggressive cutter. It cuts swirls and medium scratches 90%. You need more power to move the rotary while compounding with Insta Cut 2 OR spray little water on working area. Then you can operate the rotary more freely and make sure that you cover the glass area.
    Polished with Premium polish - removes buffer swirls and enhances the finish. Two passes - all swirls will be gone and RIDSs will be filled 90%.
    Both are designed for rotary polisher.
    here is my finished car.
    3 people like this.
  5. DRIV3R

    DRIV3R Esperto

    No idea, bro. I did not plan for all these, as I found Karcher to be reliable ones.

    Bosch Aquatak I have no idea. Sat and ramjn should give you a better idea, but in comparison to the Karcher, they are noiser and have a crude build, IMO. But they are VFM.
  6. Sat-Chit-ananda

    Sat-Chit-ananda Esperto

    Namma Bengaluru
    ^^ can you post pics of your Karcher washer?

    What is the pressure rating ? and how many nozzles you got?

    You may want post detailed review.

    - - - Merged Post - - -


    Can you please guide me like Detailing for Dummies ?

    What products i need buy and what are all the various steps involved. i read your posts but just need a step by step procedure along with tool/products required.
  7. Linear

    Linear Amatore

    I'm not Sunnyboi but let me put down what I know -

    Detailing can involve the following steps -

    Exterior -

    A good clean - this involves washing the car with a pre-wash, rinse, a two bucket wash with a good car shampoo. All the steps may not be required, depending on the car condition.

    Pre-wash -
    If the car is dirty, spray a pre-wash solution on it & let it soak. In the meantime, you can go around the nooks and crannies (logos, grills, door shuts etc.) with a soap solution and soft brush. Rinse the car well, preferably with a pressure washer. If there's a lot of accumulated dirt in the nooks & crannies, do that after rinsing since you should not allow the pre-wash solution to dry on the car. For a pre-wash, you can use a good APC diluted well. You also get some foam wash liquids, but they are difficult to source here. Also, you'll need a good foam gun for that which is again pretty expensive.

    Wash -
    Wash the car using two bucket method. A good shampoo like the Sonax or Meguiar's shampoo solution in one bucket and clean water in the other for rinsing the wash media. This will ensure that you don't transfer the dirt from car into your shampoo bucket. Rinse the car again and dry.

    Decontamination - This involves foreign particles either stuck onto the paint or embedded into it. It involves detarring, de-ironisation and claying - in that order.

    Detarring - You can use tar removers available, or a cheaper solution is to use WD-40. Spray on the surface, wait for a while, agitate a bit with a sponge and then rinse. You'll be surprised at the amount of tar melting and flowing down the paint, especially if the car has had long runs in monsoon. Rinse the car after this.

    De-ironisation - You'll need a good fallout remover for this. A commonly available one is Iron-x from Car-pro. Procedure is similar to detarring. This is used to remove minute iron particles (mainly from brake dust, but from other sources too) embedded in the paint. It simply reacts with the iron and forms a purple solution. Again you'll be surprised at the amount of "bleeding" you can get from the paint. You'll also need to do it on your wheels, and they will really bleed a lot. Rinse the car again after this.

    Claying - This is used to remove dirt particles which cannot be removed by the above two. Claying can also remove tar spots and some iron dust, but it's too much burden on the clay and yourself. There's a good chance of the clay marring your paint if it gets too dirty - so it's best done after the above two steps. Here's some more reading explaining how to clay -

    Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar
    Detailing Clay : Starters' Guide - Detailing World

    Rinse the car again to remove all the dirt and clay lube residue.

    Now your paint is ready for correction.

    Paint Correction - This refers to removal of mild scratches, swirl marks, water marks, bird poo etching etc. from your paint. Depending on the paint condition, this can be done in one, two or three stages.

    Stage 1 - Compounding -
    This involves using an abrasive compound preferably with a rotary or dual action polisher and a suitable pad. You'll need some practice to operate the polisher, pad and compound combination to give you the desired results. This will remove all the surface defects as mentioned above, but will probably leave a hazy finish on the paint.

    Some popular compounds - Meguiar's 105, Menzerna FG400 etc.

    Stage 2 - Polishing -
    This will use a mild polish either with a polisher or by hand, but always preferred by a polisher, since it's faster and less tiring. This will polish the hazy surface from compounding to give it a nice gloss.

    Some popular polishes - Meg's 205, Meg's Ultimate Polish, Menzerna SF4000.

    Stage 3 - Finish polishing / Glazing
    This may not be necessary, but some people like to further polish the surface and lay down a nice glaze for the final paint protection stage. This can again be done either by hand or machine.

    Some nice glazes are - Poorboys Black Hole, Prima Amigo

    Now the car is ready for protection.

    Paint Protection - Ther are three types of paint protecting products available - coatings, sealants and waxes.

    Coatings - These are either polymer or glass based coatings which bond to the clearcoat and form a hard, durable layer on the surface which protects the paint for a long time. The durability of coatings can range from 2 years to 10 years as claimed by manufacturers.
    Some popular names - Opti-coat, Cquartz

    Sealants - These are synthetic products, mostly polymer based. Some of them form a sacrificial layer on the paint surface while the newer ones are polymer based and actually bond to the paint a little bit. The durability is anywhere from 2 months to 6 months in some cases. The finish is very glossy, but the paint looks a bit plasticky.
    Some popular sealants - Carpro Reload, Gtechniq C2V3, Ultima Paint Guard Plus etc.

    Waxes - This is the oldest form of paint protection and still going strong primarily because of the deep rich glorious look they impart to the paint surface. This is even more evident on the darker colours. While there are some natural waxes, most of the popular products have some synthetic ingredients blended into them to provide better durability and easier application. Some waxes are available in liquid form while most are available in paste form.

    This is about the paint in a nutshell. I may have skimped on some parts, but the subject is as deep as you get into it. Hope it helps. Please ask any questions. I don't know everything, but will try to answer what I can.

    Phew, that was quite a lot to type. Tyre and trim will need another post and interiors will need yet another.
    8 people like this.
  8. Cubbie

    Cubbie Superiore

    Sat, good to know you have a Bosch pressure washer. I am eager to experience the wash once, if you are ok then let's plan a session over a weekend and I have some product like car wash shampoo and Turtle wax which we can use to shine our machines post the wash..
  9. Sat-Chit-ananda

    Sat-Chit-ananda Esperto

    Namma Bengaluru
    Cubbie come over the weekend.
    1 person likes this.
  10. Sat-Chit-ananda

    Sat-Chit-ananda Esperto

    Namma Bengaluru

    I appreciate for taking some time to write invaluable howto on DIY car detailing,can you also guide on selection of polishers?
    I read some where what ever the default pads comes with polishers are for very aggressive applications, What kind of pads we need to chose for mild polishing?
    Foam, wool and hybrid pads, which one is better for removing only the swirl marks and getting glossy look.
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013

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