Discussion in 'Technical' started by Sat-Chit-ananda, Jul 15, 2013.
Redlining in lower gears is not good for gearbox and your pocket too.
hummm... may be in longer run but it is just as fine as it was brand new, So far no anomalies. I hope it just be like this for next 50000 KMs and then find it's new owner. Also i must mention that i just don't believe in baby-sitting (initial break down period) of an engine but drive it aggressively as soon as it is delivered (albeit with proper driving concepts). It tunes Gearbox/Engine/Clutch for it's 100% performance for rest of lifetime.
I have seen many cars whose top speed were no where close to what their manufacturer specified (because their owners never drove them to the top speed at least once). Can you imagine Accent petrol losing it's breath at 120 km/hr which is hardly driven 20000 KMs?
Everything was fine. It's almost like you can't believe that it's the same specifications of the car that you drove other day.. there is lot of performance difference but no technical issue.
Cant see the diagrams. But for everybody's ease have attached the link which talks about the subject.
Rev matching & gear changing technique
Agree. Result of over-babying or because the owner is happy @ 60 and doesn't want to push anymore.
i always have this doubt about high revving though i also do pretty much,doesnt it affects Timing Chain directly ? i mean if the life of timing chain is 60K Kms ,it might come down to 45K Kms ?
Rise above the fear and doubts, all such advices look absolute rubbish to me now. I am in state of establishing it when i am backed up with my detailed experience during last 55,000 KMs. Don't know in future if there are timing chain/gear-box/clutch faults waiting for me, but no issues till date. It has climbed to the rev. limiter in every gear only after 15 minutes it was taken out of dealership (brand new i mean) and was climbing perfectly well till i came out of it 15 mins back. People driving very sedate end up frying their clutch in 15000 kms odd, it all ends up where it questions your diving method finally.
MJD's have been tested for every tough condition. I take it otherwise actually, i doubt if your engine is happy revving if you don't revv. it more often than not. May not be to the extent i do but at least once every 2000 KMs, one must go to extreme revving in every gear (just before it cuts the fuel). Not sure what is the benefit but i can bet that there is no losing side to it (assuming that clutch use is proper and no driving errors), at least not in MJDs. There is method to this madness, i am afraid.
the afraid should be of damage to the pocket.
it's also so strange,when the car is new we all keep saying maintain run-in period and after few 1000kms the car will go smooth and with this we will never enjoy the beast(Yes ?),actually after that few 1000 Kms slowlly damage to the pocket starts in installments(first service,brake pads,second service,tire change,bomb like 5th service,timing chain then again comes brake pads list continues..)
Now the one who is very sedate driver and believes more in "Kithna Dethi hein" concept will ask himselves/herselves,ENKI drives his punto so harshly still the damage to the pocket remains the same as mine,then why i'm so sedate .
Above all timing chain change interval remains the same for both the type of drivers ,at end of the day the change sounds good for the ENKI as it has taken lot of abuses and it worth to change.
P.S:- Why should ENKI have fun all the time with MJD
coming to the topic:-
suppose i'm driving at 100Kmph,i have seen a speed breaker from 100 meters,now till the speed breaker arrives i will just apply breakes rather changing gear and once i'm on the speed breaker(clutch fully pressed) i will directly shift the gear to second or first.
My query is can i directly jump to first or second by skipping 3rd gear ? is it good practice.
Depends on the momentum of the vehicle at that point. If the car is in near complete halt, shift to 1st gear from whatever gear you are in. If the car is rolling say in 20 kmph use second gear. You can use the momentum when climbing down the speed breaker to shift to second gear. Also depends on how huge is the hump.
You can shift from 5th to 3rd directly to get the required momentum (when the car is slow). You need not shift to 4th and then to 3rd.
its all got to do with power band and hardly affects anything when you are down shifting.
if your at 100 and see a speed breaker you can choose to come to 4th if the RPM is in the 4th gears power band . it will slow you down but not considerably.
You can also depress the clutch and break to make your way over the hump gingerly and then slot it to 2nd to pick it up after you've slowed down .
What will damage the gearbox and clutch is if you try to switch to 2nd gear when you see a hump going at 100kmph.
In my recent trip to pondy (of which i will shortly do a report) i revved the engine to 4000 in 3rd and 4th and only changed gears.
I also kept the RPM about 2500 always while overtaking . since my car is remapped for high speeds at that RPM a gentle touch of the A pedal in gear would give me a boost big time.
In city i'm totally a sedate driver.
So it all comes down to shifting gears in the right power band than using gears to break the speed. that's my philosophy.
if not anything hard braking would only make you to replace the pads and perhaps disks while gear breaking would take your gearbox and clutch for a toss and that's going to be mighty expensive ;-)
The worst part for the new comers is, this article and any links added all have broken images which talks about power band for RPM. I am unable to fully understand the topic due to that
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