Aftermarket Alloys Discussions

Just my basic doubt, If plastic rings can hold on why wouldn't a metallic ring. I think most of the people use the locally made metallic ones, even if it breaks it will still be intact inside the hub until you remove the wheel.

 

OK, here is some knowledge sharing for the benefit of all:

1. The only function of these rings are to transfer the stress of the up & down movement of the car to the hub and not to the lug bolts
2. The ring must be fitted to the Alloy and not to the hub. In other words, when you take the wheel off, the ring should also come off, still attached to the alloy and not remain on the hub. Slip fit on the hub and push fit on the alloy
3. Once fitted, the same ring must remain with the same alloy. It is not a good idea to swap the rings to different alloys, each time a tyre rotation is done
4. Since these are not load bearing, Aluminium or poly-carbonate are good choices
5. Aluminium would be the ideal choice for heavy heat generating conditions, like race tracks
6. For the kind of normal usage our cars see, poly-carbonate would be more than enough, but might be more expensive than Aluminium
7. Locally made ones are great, provided you find a machinist with the ability to maintain correct tolerances
8. It is a good idea to apply a very thin layer of anti-seize paste to all contact surfaces, before mounting. That way, it will be quite easy to take off when needed

@royj - please correct me if I am wrong

Rajan

 

here i have a question then.
2 days ago when i got the rings made from Al, i ensured it was a really snug fit between the alloy and the wheel hub.
Now how do you ensure that the ring fits perfectly only to the alloy but not the wheel hub?
Do you mean to say that a few mm of play between the ring and the wheel hub is acceptable?

 

No Sir. not few mm. at best, 0.5 mm . The fit should be such that you can slip in and slip out the ring over the hub, without any tools. Once slipped on to the hub, you must be must be able to rotate the ring on the hub, without any effort, but at the same time, it should not be so loose, that you can move it up and down.

Coming to the alloy, the ring must fit in such a way, that you are able to push it in with a little effort. Ideally without any tools, but must still require some effort pushing it in. That way, the ring becomes a part of the alloy and stays attached to it, even when you take the wheel off.

Rajan

 

thanks for the response and im guessing mine is not like this, again :A

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thanks for the response and im guessing mine is not like this, again :A

 

Why don't you check with Performance Alloys. They seem to have a set of 4 plastic spigot rings for GBP 10 + shipping

Rajan

 

Shiv Shakthi tyre, JC road opposite to muncipal parking have spigot rings for almost all kinds of alloys. The rings are made of aluminium and should cost around 200 rs each. I have tried 2 sets of 100 PCD alloys so far and no issues with those spigot rings. For the members who are scared of 100 PCD alloys, it is easy to fit in our cars. It is simple engineering, when i saw what those rings and how they work i felt like what? is this it!!.

Second time i bought a file myself and adjusted the second set of rings for 15" GTR alloys.

 

Wait a minute. What does spigot rings have to do with PCD? How in the world did you adjust the rings with a file? I am totally confused now.

Rajan

 

chetan, this is interesting (read very dangerous) what did you do and can you please explain the connection between PCD and rings?

Secondly, yes even i have aluminium rings only (i paid 400 for 1) its nice to know there is a guy cheaper than that and sad to know i spend a fortune .

 

Yes Chetan, your explanation goes away from plain logic. Very interested to hear what was done to your alloys.

Sigh...same here. And i got rid of these alloys soon after getting hub rings, which was a total waste of money for me.

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